Before I continue on with my travel diary, I wanted to take a moment to explain some of my emotions about going on a trip like this.
Steve and I don't get to travel together, and Max is in such a place right now with seizures, and moodiness, that even a trip to the park is iffy on most days. The last big trip out of the country I went on was 3 years ago, also to Paris and London. Steve and I try to alternate trips to give each other a big break, but also not break the bank. It's quite taxing on both of us for the other to go on a big journey. We have to rearrange schedules for Max and Abbey, and work. Then there is a feeling of being excited for each other to go on an adventure, but also quite sad that we can't go together. But, as that is where we are in life, we push on and go.
On my first visit to Paris, I found it enchanting, if not a little confusing. I wanted to go back this time to settle some of my questions and dig a little deeper into this city. As one travel partner was already going to be there for a family wedding, and it was as good a time as any for me and my other friend to go, we started planning.
Initially, I wanted to make my next trip over a visit to England, Scotland, and Northern Ireland. I have dear friends in each of those places, and wanted to spend time with them in their surroundings. But, as money went, and schedules went, this time turned into a trip to Paris and London again. But, next time, England, Scotland, and Northern Ireland are the places I will be.
Usually on a visit to another country, I have each day planned down to the hour. I like to know what I'm doing, and where I'm going. I also like to leave that schedule with Steve, so he knows where I am. This time was very different, in that we kind of just played it by ear most days. Which was nice. It allowed me to see areas of Paris I've not seen before, and made it a completely different trip than the one I did a few years ago.
Then, there is London.
I have friends the world over, all of whom wish I would come to their countries for a visit. I've visited a good number of places. But there is an invisible magnetic draw that is constantly pulling me to this city, every chance I get. It's not something I've acquired as an adult. I remember being a young girl, and getting a post-card from my aunt when she visited London. That same post-card is framed and on a shelf in my living-room today. From that first glimpse, I told myself, "I will live there one day."
Many of you readers know that was nearly a reality, but Max told us otherwise, and there were other plans in the works for the upcoming years that we had no way of knowing about. While I know why we've needed to be back here, mostly for Max to be with his doctors, but also for Abbey to come home to us, and to be here through a tumultuous year through mom's cancer; my heart, and Steve's is still pulled across the sea to London.
Going back there is always a mix of extreme excitement, but also a sweet melancholy, with a splash of deep grief thrown in. I try hard not to dwell on the "might have beens", as we stroll through the neighborhoods we researched to live. I push down the lump in my throat when I hear big Ben chime. I close my eyes and take in the murky, sweet smell and let the breeze kiss my face standing near the Thames. I fall asleep to the sound of traffic, wishing on a cloudy sky that we could be there as a family.
While I don't know that I could ever put into words exactly what it means to be there, I reckon it's most like being home. It's a place where my dreams were nearly complete, but just out of reach. I think it's a rare thing to know where you belong. To have found the one place in the world where every part of you feels calm. The bustling city and serene parks of London are that place for me. Luckily, I married someone who feels the same way...maybe more.
Because it's the kind of person I am, I know we will end up there one day. That's the hope I have, and why I keep going back. I say hello to my favorite spots, and learn the city that will one day be my home. One day.
Monday, August 12, 2013
Sunday, August 11, 2013
Paris Day 3...
Initially, we thought we would go to the top of Notre Dame on our third day in Paris. But, we all thought it best to skip it, given the excitement I imposed on everyone at Versailles. Instead, we walked along the Champs Elysées. It was a beautiful day for a walk. It was still sweltering, but the stores were air conditioned, and the trees offered a refuge from the blazing sun.


I wasn't on the lookout for anything in particular on our shop hopping, but ended up finding Abbey some cute sunglasses. The thing I got for myself was from my favorite patisserie, Paul Patisserie, after lunch.


I tried very hard to stick with eating no dairy or gluten, but I made exception here, and it was absolutely worth the little rash I got on my stomach. In fact, the only time I veered from my regular way of eating was for desserts!
We stopped into the Orangerie Museum along the way. This is where Monet's large paintings of Water Lilies live. They were impressive, for sure, and so calming. I got one photo snapped before I realized we were not supposed to be taking pictures. If you want to see more of the paintings, just click on this google link: Monet Water Lilies, Orangerie, Paris.

This was one of my favorites, but there was also one with a willow tree that caught my eye too. I liked how close we could get up to the paintings. I try to not be intrusive to other peoples' art viewing, but I never understand why people sit back on the little benches and look at art. I have to get as close as possible to a piece. I was to see the brush strokes, and layers of paint. I want to see the pencil sketching under the finished product. I like seeing the steps, not the big picture all the time. So, I got as close as possible to these lovelies, as the room afforded that space.
We walked along the last bit of the Champs Elysées, and were greeted with quite a view of all the ground we had just covered, behind us.


And the start of the Louvre Museum before us.




Inside the Louvre, we went to see the main pieces, like The Mona Lisa. I got to see her "close up" on my last trip to Paris, so didn't fight the crowds to get up close this time. Everyone has no doubt seen the famous lady in books through the years, so I think this shot explains a bit better what it's like to truly see her in person.

The Louvre is massive. There is no way you could view everything in one trip, unless that trip was every day for four months. It was once the palace, and has some gorgeous rooms.

I spent a bit of time in this room, because I like the large paintings, but also, there were floor vents shooting cool air conditioning on my hot feet. So, I feigned much more interest in the paintings than needed in order to hog all the air. Have I mentioned yet it was hot in Paris?
One of the ornate ceilings, along with paintings.

We saw a lot of sculptures this visit. This one caught my eye, as there was so much detail under the veil. It's a solid piece of marble!

This one I liked because of it's whimsy.

And this was probably one of my favorite art pieces I saw the whole trip. (Grandma, cover your eyes)

I call it laundry day.
We left the museum a little cooler, and ready to make our reservations at our highlight meal in Paris, a totally gluten free restaurant called NOGLU. It was a real treat to know everything on the menu was gluten free, although for me, I got a bit of dairy mixed in.
I started with a cucumber soup, which was cold and delicious.

We all shared the puffy little cheese biscuits.

My main was fish on top of quinoa, and celery root with what they called leeks, but sure looked and tasted like bok-choy to me. Those are mushrooms on top.

For dessert, I had a peach cobbler.

Gwen and Kris had spring rolls, with a surprise ingredient of seared tuna, which neither particularly cares for.

Kris also had the fish as a main, and Gwen had the lasagna.

And finished with an apricot cake.

Our delicious meal behind us, it was time for our reserved spot on top of the Eiffel Tower. Because we were close on time, we took a taxi over and made it just in time to catch a glorious sunset before our ride to the top.



We crammed into the little trolly cart that took us to the first level. I snapped this photo before I started working on my breathing to calm my heart. I detest crammed spaces, and high heights.

But, today, from the safety of the ground, I can say it was worth it.




I can honestly say, I've never experienced a sunset quite like that. It was breathtaking. And not just because I was terribly close to chickening out again and not taking the last ride up to the top. If it weren't for all the people between me and the edge, I probably would have gone on down. But, I figured, if someone was going to fall off, it would be them before me, and stuck close to the center of the tower.
The second level was all glassed in, which seemed more reasonable to me.

Once we made it to the top, it was largely anticlimactic. We were caged in, and of course, the space was much smaller, so I never got to see out of the top easily, but can say I saw the City of Lights from above...through a cage.
We were up there as the flashing lights started to go off, which added a strobe light feel to the heights and claustrophobia. While I felt accomplished that I had done it, I will mark it off my list as something I do not need to do again.

Here I am, resolved, and shaking in my boots.
On the way down, we were treated to the last of the sun touching the earth. Something I never get tired of seeing, as the mountains here always steal the last of the show away from us.

I prefer the view from here.

Here we are, the end of a very full day. Three friends having seen the top of the world from a tower.

Day 4 takes us to London, by way of traveling under the sea on a train.
Friday, August 9, 2013
Paris Day 2...
On our second day in Paris, we took it a bit slower getting around in the morning, and caught the train to Versailles after we had breakfast at the apartment. Versailles was the top of my "to-do" list for Paris this time around. I really wanted to see the gardens, and hoped to see the fountains (which ended up not being on while we were there.) It was a hot day to be sure, but we were happy to have already gotten our pass to "skip the line" once we got to Versailles.
My first glimpse of the palace, I could not quite take in what I was seeing. It was just so expansive. This grand building went on forever. I couldn't quite wrap my head around such opulence. As we got closer to the site, that amazement just went further.



You can see here just how gloriously French blue the sky was.

Not a cloud in the sky...sun blazing...and about 36° C. (That's nearing 96° F) We got close to the gates and realized our "fast passes" didn't mean diddly squat, and got to stand in line with the hundreds of tour bus visitors, which we were not prepared for. We each left our umbrellas at the apartment because there was no risk of rain that day, but after about 20 minutes of standing in the long and curving line, we wished we had brought at least one.
We finally got up to the gates and got into the palace.

We decided to walk through the Queen's Apartments first.

(dueling harpsichord?)

(Ornate rug in Queen's bedroom)
I was struck by how tiny the furniture looked. I suppose either they were very tiny people, or had to lay at a diagonal.



We walked through the apartments and circled back around to the courtyard, and to find a restroom to use.



At this point, it was getting increasingly hot, and frankly, more cramped from the crowds than I felt comfortable with. I made my way to the toilet lines and waited along with men and women alike. This is where the day got way more exciting than I planned for. There was a assistant mopping the floor, ushering people in one at a time as a toilet came available. I was second in line when the assistant stopped the women from coming in and had a group of men go in to use the facilities. At this point, I started getting extremely hot. My vision got a bit splotchy and I felt like I was going to be sick. I bent my head down and when Gwen asked if I was okay, I told her I was just so hot. I was actually pleading with God in my head to not get sick all over the place. Kris was ahead of me and she went in. That's the last I remember. Gwen said the attendant was calling for me to go in, and I was just looking at her. Then Gwen asked me if I was okay, and says that's when she got under my arms as she and I slid to the ground. The next thing I remember, Gwen was calling my name, telling me to wake up, or say something. I had a man taking my pulse, in his broken English or French he was saying he was a doctor. The French/African attendant was pouring handfuls of water on my head, and down my shirt. As I came around more, I realized to my horror what had happened, and just exactly where this germaphobe was...passed out on the public bathroom floor. I asked what had happened, and they somehow got me to my feet and to a bench outside.

Here we are, that's my bench.
I lay there looking up at the swallow nest on the side of the building, closing my eyes while they all talked around me. The emergency crew had been called, and the Italian doctor was telling them I needed coffee to bring me around. The French Emergency crew laughed at this. They took my vitals and my blood-pressure was good. They all came to the agreement I needed to drink Coke, and eat. If I couldn't come around and feel fine after that, I would need to go to a hospital. I looked at Kris and told her I did not want to go to the hospital! She went to get me a coke, and I sat up trying to gain some more strength about me.
I don't think I've had a coke since I was pregnant with Max, to help with the morning sickness. It's just one of the grossest drinks to me, yet here I was taking this "medicine" to bounce back.

As I got my wits about me more and more, I was basically mortified I had fainted. Something that has never happened to me before. I think it was just a perfect storm of being too hot, not enough food and drink in me, and jet-lag. We got to the cafe to eat, and after that, I felt really fine. Fine enough to finish out the day at the gardens. We did take it a bit easier, but I think after that adrenaline rush, everyone was okay to take it a little easier.
We wanted to see the gardens, but did not care to walk it, so we were happy to pay for the golf-cart experience. It was possibly the most touristy thing I've ever done, but hey...when in Versailles, do as the French?

It turned out to be a great decision, and we got to see so much more of the grounds than we would have on foot.








It seriously just went on forever! How could one king need so much space?

(Another palace on the grounds, where they preferred to live, and most of Marie Antionette's things were.)


Look, a royal toilet.

We circled back around to the main palace in time to take a quick tour through before they closed for the day.


Our main goal was to make it to the hall of mirrors. The crowds had died down considerably, so it was open enough to move around.

(The couple you see in the photo were dancing cheek to cheek as if they were the only two in the entire palace.)
Here we are reflecting in the mirrors.

The end of the hall of mirrors ushered us into more living spaces.



With more amazing views.

We had made it to the end of our tour, just as they were closing. We were ushered out with the last remaining visitors and made our way back to the train station to go back into Paris.
But first, one last look at Versailles.

We made it back to Paris in time for dinner, then on to see Paris by boat ride at night.

The tour was informational, and cool on the Seine. But the thing that struck me the most were the large number of people along the banks dancing, picnicking, and partying. I think that was the best view of Paris in Summer I could have imagined!
At the end of the ride, the boat driver paused just for a moment to see the Eiffel Tower light up.

It was plenty late by the time we finished our tour, and we all agreed our husbands would all prefer we take a taxi back to the apartment, rather than navigate our way back on the metro. We got back, showered, and relaxed from a very eventful second day!
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